Opening up the Wardrobe: A Methods Book


Kate Fletcher (ed)
Royal Danish Academy - Architecture, Design, Conservation
Ingun Grimstad Klepp (ed)


Wardrobe, clothing care, textiles, garments, wardrobe audit, clothing longevity, laundry, fashion, consumption, material knowledge, re-fashioning, re-purposing


This book presents a unique collection of 50 methods for exploring the actions, relationships and material contents of wardrobes. Organised as a practical guide to gathering information about people and their clothing beyond the point of purchase, it includes visual, tactile and verbal methods and others which involve making together, loitering and a session in the gym.

With contributions from four continents from both in- and outside academic circles, this book and the real lives of wearers of clothes that are its focus, create a powerful new narrative of a more diverse, resourceful, emancipatory and holistic fashion and clothing system.

Author Biographies

Kate Fletcher, Royal Danish Academy - Architecture, Design, Conservation

Kate Fletcher is a professor at the Royal Danish Academy - Architecture, Design, Conservation, Institute of Architecture and Design.

Ingun Grimstad Klepp, SIFO

Research Professor Ingun Grimstad Klepp is educated in Ethnology and works at Consumption Research Norway (sifo), specialising in consumption of clothing.

Paul Yuille

Paul Yuille has 16 years’ experience within the creative industries. His research focus is sustainable fashion and the fast-fashion phenomenon.

Stephanie Roper

Stephanie Roper is a stylist who believes there is a better way to manage wardrobes, getting more wear out of what you already own.

Timo Rissanen

Timo Rissanen (born 1975) is an educator, artist and designer, who approaches his academic/creative work as a form of activism.

Vibeke Riisberg, Design School Kolding

Vibeke Riisberg textile designer, Associate Professor, PhD Design School Kolding, Denmark. Research interests include sustainable design, aesthetic experience, decoration and textiles in service systems.

Emma Rigby

Emma Rigby is a fashion practitioner, researcher and educator. She explores fashion as a dynamic between social, material and environmental contexts.

Trine Brun Petersen, University of Southern Denmark

Trine Brun Petersen Associate Professor, PhD University of Southern Denmark. Research interests include work wear and fashion for children, design and behaviour in institutional contexts.

Liz Parker

Liz Parker is an educator concerned with social and environmental justice, drawing inspiration from nature-based and global education and experience defending garment workers’ rights.

Kirsi Niniimaki

Associate Professor in Fashion Research Kirsi Niniimaki is team leader for the Fashion/Textiles Futures research group. She is interested in research in fashion and sustainability. 

Tara Baoth Mooney, University of Wolverhampton

Tara Baoth Mooney is a PhD researcher at the University of Wolverhampton specialising in methods which explore the hidden narratives of self which are embedded within the garments we wear.

Jonnet Middleton

Jonnet Middleton is a Cuban-based artist who experiments in non-capitalist living.

Holly McQuillan

Holly McQuillan is a designer, writer and facilitator, who works primarily in the field of sustainable design practice. She is currently a PhD student at the Swedish School of Textiles.

Else Skjold, Design School Kolding

Else Skjold is currently Assistant Professor at Design School Kolding, Denmark, within the areas of user studies, sustainability and design management.

Silje Elisabeth Skuland

Silje Elisabeth Skuland (PhD) is a sociologist researching consumption practices in households, including food, clothes, housework and class inequalities. 

Sophie Woodward, niversity of Manchester

Sophie Woodward is a Senior Lecturer in Sociology at the University of Manchester who researches material culture, clothing practices and ‘dormant things’.

Jennifer Whitty

Jennifer Whitty is a sustainable design researcher, educator, designer, facilitator, writer and activist. She is involved in developing alternative ecologies of fashion practice.

Jade Whitson-Smith

Jade Whitson-Smith is a lecturer in Textiles with an interest in everyday garment use behaviour.

Anna Hedtjärn Wester, County Museum of Sörmland

Anna Hedtjärn Wester, PhD in History, specialised in male fashion, and is curator at the County Museum of Sörmland.

Julia Valle-Noronha, Aalto University

Julia Valle-Noronha is a designer researcher working within creative practices in fashion design, investigating the agency of clothes at Aalto University, Finland. 

Marie Ulväng, Uppsala University

Marie Ulväng, PhD and researcher in Economic History, Uppsala University, educated in textile crafts, background as curator specialised in textiles.

Amy Twigger Holroyd

Amy Twigger Holroyd is a designer, maker, researcher and lecturer who explores grassroots making as a strategy for sustainable fashion.

Jo Turney

Jo Turney researches the relationship between the ordinary and the extraordinary in fashion and textiles practices and objects.

Emily Towers

Emily Towers designer maker, researcher into sustainable clothing, with extensive industry experience in fashion.  

Mathilda Tham

Mathilda Tham’s work sits in an activist, hopeful, creative, feminist space between fashion/design, futures studies and sustainability.

Magdalena Petersson McIntyre, University of Gothenburg

Magdalena Petersson McIntyre is Associate Professor and PhD 
in Ethnology at the Centre for Consumer Science, University of Gothenburg.

Sydney Martin

Sydney Martin is an ethnographer who founded Slanted Light to help the most innovative leaders solve deep human challenges. 

Emma Lindblad, Stockholm University

Emma Lindblad is a fashion scholar at the Centre for Fashion Studies at Stockholm University.

Sarah Marie Hall, University of Manchester

Sarah Marie Hall is Lecturer in Human Geography at the University of Manchester. Her research involves innovating with ethnographic and participatory methods.

Lynda Grose

Lynda Grose is a designer, educator, author, and has worked on fashion design for sustainability for more than two decades.

Keith Doyle, Emily Carr University of Art + Design

Keith Doyle is an Assistant Professor of Design at Emily Carr University of Art + Design.

Abigail Dixon, University of Chester

Abigail Dixon is a psychology and geography graduate of the University of Chester, and has a keen interest in repair and reuse.

Hélène Day Fraser

Hélène Day Fraser is an Associate Professor of Design at Emily Carr University of Art + Design.

Anja Connor-Crabb

Anja Connor-Crabb is a fashion designer-researcher enquiring into ways to encourage longer lasting relationships with clothing.

Rebecca Collins

Dr Rebecca Collins is a Senior Lecturer in Human Geography with research interests in sustainable consumption, making, repair and waste.

Mari Bjerck

Mari Bjerck has written a PhD thesis on work uniforms and is currently researching clothing, consumption and innovation at Eastern Norway Research Institute.

Anne Louise Bang

Anne Louise Bang is a textile designer, Associate Professor, PhD Design School Kolding, Denmark. Research interests include sustainable design, textile design and design methods.

Karen Tranberg Hansen

Karen Tranberg Hansen is an urban anthropologist whose specialty is economic livelihoods in Africa, including consumption, dress and fashion.

Lizzie Harrison

Lizzie Harrison is a researcher and entrepreneur working on local fashion projects focusing on repair, use and design activism.

Kirsi Laitala

Kirsi Laitala conducts interdisciplinary research on textiles and sustainability at Consumption Research Norway. She is a vegetarian into music and cats.

Sari Kujala, Aalto University

Sari Kujala is Research Fellow at Aalto University with research focus on user experience and user-centered design.

Mari Krappala

Mari Krappala (born 1968) is an art theorist, curator, writer and mentor, whose work focuses on transdisciplinary and collective productions and writing fictions from theories.

Årolilja Jørgensrud

Årolilja Jørgensrud has a background in design, climate adaptation 
and agroecology. Her work focuses on the nexus between sustainable agriculture and fashion.

Helene Holmes, University of Manchester

Helen Holmes is Hallsworth Research Fellow at the University of Manchester researching the material and temporal practices of everyday thrift.

Ruby Hætte

Ruby Hoette is a designer/curator/educator working with traces of 
the social, cultural and economic interactions and transactions that constitute fashion.

Emma Hætte

Best described as a storyteller, Emma Hoette uses her body, dance, choreography, performance, design, clothing, film and installations to create the languages she uses to tell stories.

Marie Hebrok

Marie Hebrok is a PhD candidate at Consumption Research Norway and works within the fields of industrial design and sustainable consumption.

Ingrid Haugsrud, Oslo and Akerhus University College

Ingrid Hausgrud is a Norwegian designer who has a master’s degree in Fashion and Society from the Oslo and Akerhus University College. 

Matilda Aspinall

Matilda Aspinall is a designer-maker and researcher who is re-interpreting past re-fashioning techniques into the design and construction of contemporary clothing.

Opening up the Wardrobe Cover


16 October 2023

Details about the available publication format: PDF e-book

PDF e-book

ISBN-13 (15)


Details about the available publication format: Paperback


ISBN-13 (15)


Physical Dimensions

170mm x 240mm